
As hinted in a previous posting Janet and I were in Italy during the World Cup final and experienced some of the euphoria it generated first hand. We had booked to go to the opera in Verona on Sunday the 9th July months before the World Cup even started and neither of us being a footie fan the date didn't seem significant.
Verona is special for opera as they use the second largest amphitheatre in Italy to stage it. So it is in the open air, and they use the incredible accoustics rather than amplification to really provide a wonderful atmosphere... you can see where this is leading can't you?
The opera was Aida, staged and designed by Franco Zeppharelli, so the set and costumes were spectacular.
Egypt, Italy and Zepharelli
Before the show started we had supper in the rather wonderfully named Bra Plazza. There were hundreds of football fans in full Italian regalia and armed with flags (how come the national strip is bright blue, but the flag is green, white and red?). Several of the bars had plasma screen TV's set up and for the first time, possibly ever, there were more people in the bars not going to the opera than going. The mix of formally dressed opera goers and the football fans made for an interesting spectacle.
After supper we went into the arena and found our seats, close to the floor of the amphitheatre, on the second tier of the stone oval.
The first two acts were wonderful - the singing was electrifyingly good and the set with its huge rotating pyramid was an enduring eye-full.
Radamès
Aida and the Princess
Ballet too!
More wonderful sets
Yet more wonderful sets and costumes
There was an intermission after the second act. As I went down to get a drink a buzz spread round the amphitheatre - there was a penalty shoot out... Well we all know the result. Just as I was handed my drink someone started shouting - Italy had won. Then the place went crazy.
Within a minute the stage was crowded with everyone from stage hands, to extras to the lead performers. The Pharoah was up there waving the Italian flag.
World Cup Madness Everyone was dancing, jumping up and down and shouting. After a few minutes of total chaos the orchestra came back and the conductor led everyone, the stage hands and performers, as well as the audience in the Italian national anthem. I'm proud to say that through watching rugby on TV I knew the tune and chorus at least and so joined in as well. Then we sang it all for a second time.
Slowly calm returned and after about 20 minutes the 3rd Act started... Then we realised what a lot of noise was coming from outside the amphitheatre - it sounded like a battle or riot was raging all around us. The performers soldiered on despite it being almost impossible to hear them...
And then the fireworks started. That defeated them. Aida and the lead tenor, Radamès, left the stage and had a conflab with the conductor as we listened to the roar of the mob outside accompanied by airhorns and explosions. After a few minutes the explosions subsided and the performance continued, but it was still almost impossible to hear a thing. The accoustics of the amphitheatre meant that if an explosion occurred in front of us we heard a bang, but if it was behind us we didn't hear a bang, but a sort of 'zing' or metallic buzz as the sound reflected off the stone tiers opposite.
The performance stopped once again in the 5th Act but the performers just stayed on stage until the noise - a series of firecrackers died out.
After the magnificent show was over and the encores complete we headed out into the bedlam of the Bra Plazza - it was like a scene from a Bruegel painting - a total chaos of wierd people. There were a bride and groom with her still in her bridal dress dancing and singing. There were drunks of all ages wrapped in flags or waving them. There were children and there were grannies all dancing with an amazing frenzy. Our problem was that we had to find our tour guide and then get back to our coach; a non-trivial task. Anyway we managed it and got back to the coach without loosing anyone despite the chaos. It was only then that I realised I had forgotten to take any photos of the celebrations!
Despite the fact that I'm not a football fan, like the 1966 World Cup final, this year's will be one that I will never forget! Oh, by the way I heard the second half of Aida a few weeks later, when I brought the CD!
All the photos can be see at
http://public.fotki.com/SpottedDick/aida_in_verona/