There was a dire warning on the instructions for the holiday that the suitcases must be in the reception by 9am, so I got up 15 minutes before the alarm (didn’t sleep well again – too hot, despite the a.c.). I rushed breakfast which was a shame as it was a darn sight better than yesterdays, and managed to get the case closed and down to reception just in the nick of time.
It was quite gloomy outside so I put on some long trousers, but felt quite hot while mooching around town so took them off (shorts underneath) before setting off just after 9:30.
The walk up out of Riquewihr was through apple orchards and woods and then the road broke out into rolling vineyards. I took a few photos including one with the timer of me walking down the road.
I quickly reached the next village Hunawihr and instead of skirting around the town as the directions. I was glad I did, as it was again very pretty, if shut.
(can you see the castle on top of the hill in the distance?)
The fortified church was interesting – I don’t think I have ever seen a church with a defensive wall around it, between it and most of its churchyard. It must have been a dangerous place here in the Middle Ages (13th Century) as all the towns are fortified too.
I considered visiting the ‘Stork Rehabilitation Centre’ outside town, but it was in the wrong direction, so I pressed on. This is where all the storks in the area come from.
The views should have been spectacular out across the valley to the Rhine and Germany beyond, but they didn’t look too good in the gloom.
I was impressed by the old dry stone wall that ran along the road on both sides – a huge amount of effort had been put into it. I wasn’t surprised then when I discovered that it dated back to the 13th Century.
This photo also shows my first view of the ‘Trois Chateaux’ that I was going to get very familiar with later.
Ribeauville, was the next town and was incredibly picturesque.
This was meant to be a ‘fortified bridge’ I was very disappointed after the fortified church. I was wondering how you were meant to get over it if there was a wall round it! The rest of town was very pretty too.
I went to the ‘Coop’ and the boulangerie as it was far too early to eat here and I knew there would be no where else en route to eat until Thannenkirch, my destination, so I bought a picnic (augmented by the salami I bought yesterday) including cheese, apricots, and of course, beer…
The climb out of Ribeauville was immediately severe. I decided I need music to help me but was disappointed to find the batteries on my MP3 player had gone flat so I had to put up with the sound of birdsong and my rasping breath. For the first time on the walk there were loads of other walkers too. I had passed two couples along the road from Hunawihr who I suspect are following the same or similar route as me, but here there were loads of people from all over the place, Dutch, German, French, English and ‘God-knows-where’ (Slavic).
Slowly but surely the ruined castles got closer – I was really pleased that it was comparatively cool and cloudy as I was sweating buckets – my pack was significantly heavy with 2 bottles of beer, 2 of water and various edibles.
After a very steep clime I finally saw the first gate – I wondered what it must have looked like five hundred years ago.
The castle (not chateau) was magnificent in its decrepitude. Lots to see, battlements to climb and even an old keep with its staircase replaced to get even a better view from… and the views were magnificent.
both of the town of Ribeauville below, but also of the adjoining castle
and even Hunawihr
to add to the excitement there was a helicopter buzzing Ribeauville.
There were quite a few other folk up at the castle including a large group with two dogs. I had passed them on the trail and obviously worried the dogs by my lightness of foot and speed up the hill because they went crazy as I passed. As a way of saying sorry one of the party (of Germans) made it up to me and took my photo
Or perhaps it was revenge?
The castle was called "St Ulrich" and it had fantastic views across to the other castle (Giersberg) and across the valley. Much to my surprise I climbed the ‘dunjon’ tower, despite my fear of heights and the rickety staircase.
But I was glad I did, as the views were even better…
The other castle (Giersberg Tower) looked so close you could almost touch it…
When I left the Ulricht castle I misunderstood the directions and ended up at the Giersberg tower by mistake, but it did allow me a nice shot of the Ulrich castle.
The people who had these places built must have been truly awesome. Just the feat of getting the rocks up the hill to build these castles was quite a feat
After a little searching I did find the right trail and to my amazement, as I thought I was at the top, it was upward on an even more steep and difficult trail. I was soon above both castles
The final castle, Haut Ribaupierre was officially off limits but I did venture to have a quick squint of the ruins. I managed to resist the temptation of climbing up and having a look. The advantage of walking alone I guess, as I had no one with me to tell me not to!
It was getting close to lunchtime and my pack was heavy with the food (and drink) I had bought in town, but I pressed on until after 1:30 when I found the perfect spot for me, a log in the crook of a bend in the road with a steam gurgling nearby (under the road). I spent about an hour there eating the bread, cheese, salami and apricots and enjoying the Alsace beer (and water) I had lugged up with me. Not much happened there. I just listened to the water and the pair of eagles soaring and screeching far above me (safe from my camera lens).
I didn’t see many people. One couple I had passed a couple of times on the way up and a threesome picking their way up hill in open toed sandals, but otherwise no one – bliss. I could have stayed longer, but eventually I finished both bottles of beer and it was time to press on downwards.
A little after setting off I came across a girl on a bike pedalling her way up the hill. She spoke to me in worse French than I speak so I suggested she tried English. She was German and she was trying to cycle along the GR 5 to Ribeauville. I admired her pluck and warned her that it got a lot steeper on the way up and a lot lot steeper on the way down. She decided not to turn back. In retrospect I wonder if that was wise?
Apart from her the only other living mammal I saw was a camera shy squirrel.
We played "grandmother footsteps" for quite some time but eventually I could only get its backend in my viewfinder.
The path contoured very gently down hill and suddenly I was out of the woods and there was Thannenkirch in front of me
– and it started to rain. I stopped and got my rain jacket out and put it on and carried on.
I managed to get a full 5 minutes benefit of the jacket before the heavens cleared and the sun started to shine.
So my second day's walk was over. According to my GPS I had walked a mere 12.8km though it was quite hilly!
This is the trail from Google Earth
If you want to see my trail in Google Earth then click here and download the .kml file.
I was impressed by the size and grandeur of the "Hotel Sporting". I checked in and was sent to my single fir clad little oven in the eves. Actually once I opened the windows it was fine, and better than that it had WiFi access – but for some reason I couldn't get Yahoo! to work.
They also have just had a brand spanking new swimming pool complex opened, so having got all my downloads, uploads and recharges sorted I went for a swim and played with the whirlpool spa, instant waterfall (that gave me a face full) and the bubble jets in the main pool. There was just me and two other little kids playing for about half an hour.
I then went back to the room changed and went down to the terrace where thanks to WiFi (ain’t it great) I carried on downloading/uploading etc until my batteries were flat and it was time for supper.
Dinner was interesting because I didn’t get a menu, only the wine card. I chose a very nice Gewürztraminer from Ribeauville and waited to see what food I was going to be given. It turned out to be Melon and a really smoky ham for starters and a plate of two kinds of beef (one stewed with onions, the other lightly fried) with a big portion of carrots and a tiny cube of polenta. I obviously confused everyone as the waiter would only speak to me in German despite my replies in French and the fact that I didn’t use my cheese fork and knife for my first cheese course meaning that I got a second before the sweet course (a sort of baked Alaska with pineapple).
Janet phoned me towards the end of the meal and caught up with all my news and then I retired to my garret (no honestly it’s a fine room) to finish this…
Once again I didn’t sleep well – this time because of the rain – I had to get up to close the rooftop windows as the rain was getting in and because the single bed was about 3 inches too short.
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